Monday, January 16, 2006

Greetings from Switzerland!!!

When I stepped outside to get onto the plane to Lugano in Zurich it smelled like Evergreen Trees. We flew over the alps one hour south, and I saw the famous mountain of Matterhorn, the small plane swerved around a few small mountains, landed and slammed on the breaks. Outside the runway in Lugano Sorrengo, the weather was cold and dry, but very sunny - 45 degrees. Mountains dotted with villas surround you like Walls.
Lugano is the principal city in the southernmost "canton" or state, in the country of Switzerland. The border is literally 5 km away.The Country of Italy surrounds us on both sides. Swiss punctuality (punctuality is a virtue here as the trains are no more than 5 seconds late), efficiency (the Swiss like production but conservation – they charge 25 cents for each of those brown bags at the grocery store), and cleanliness (there is no litter anywhere anytime except for what appear to be bizarre forms of graffiti), are all "compromised" (as the few Germans in the north say) by Italian language, architecture and religion (Catholicism).
It is located in the Canton of Ticino, the only Italian Canton. There are dozens of cantons in Switzerland, each of them with their own governments and customs and laws. Only 8% of the country speaks Italian, but it is the official language here. Almost all the Catholics in the country are here; and it represents a substantial recruitment area for the Swiss Guard in Rome.
The people of Lugano, Switzerland are somewhat different from the typical horn-blowing, goat-herding Swiss-German Stereotypes. But they are still fairly homogenous; they are tall, thin, tan and have brown hair. They are clean and fashionable, most of them wear black. The Young people in the clubs wear soccer apparel, and sequen jeans. There are few students and very few tourists in Lugano and, although accessible, the city seems culturally remote from other multicultural cities like Zurich and Geneva. The college and the city have a "love-hate" relationship, although Franklin college is camouflaged and has only 300 students. Unlike those of other cities, no minorities or immigrants are in Lugano with the exception of maybe a few arabs on visas; tall swiss men do everything from waxing your floor to construction work (the sound of hammers and nails echo through the valley here) to serving you gas to checking your luggage. The Swiss government is very strict. It is against the law to NOT have health insurance; which is ungodly expensive; and you must even ensure your bicycle. The lack of tourists and young people make the place more traditional – The English language is rare and a last resort – the trilingual proprietors at such places as a cell phone stores only resort to speaking English before they verify you don't speak the other three Swiss languages. They frantically inquire "Parlate italiano?........... français..deutsch?!?" Then they laugh, hesitate, look down as if they are ashamed and proceed to speak to me in fragmented English with a strange lisp. Our transaction is successful but akward. Other times people will tell you they don't speak English, while striking a conversation to you in English. Other students attempt a lame "Gratzi" to the Italians after they buy something. I just say "Thank you and Goodbye," and the occasional woman at the cash register smiles at the sight of me, a rare English pale blond.
Little Smartcars, minis, and yes, triumph spitfires, dot the tiny roads here. There are many many Audis, Volkswagens and Fiats. The tiny cars buzz along with electric, turbocharged little engines to compensate for their 1 litre engines and 6 dollar per gallon gasoline costs.
I live downtown 15 minutes away from campus near the lake in what I can only describe as a neo art-deco style condominium called "Florida." The building is made of marble and glass. The room is beautiful with a patio and view of the mountains in the upper window, but I haven't spent much time in that room, and hope not to do so in the future. Due to severe jet lag, I forced myself to stay up 36 hours so I could go to bed at a normal hour. I woke up at 6 am and saw the sun rise to a fog - normal over the lake in warm mornings. The walk to class is 15 minutes up a steep hill to campus, up a residential road along side villas and cottages with shrubbery of that what looks like a rainforest - architecture reminiscent to me of Palo Alto, CA minus 30 degrees.
The temperature is 15 degrees warmer on the lake. Mediterranean air currents end the Lugano winter in late February, and allow for palm trees to grow on the campus ground, now covered in snow. Classes start on Monday.
The swiss love croissants and yogurt for Breakfast. Their spoons are WAY too big for your mouth and their teacup handles woudn't be close to fitting your pinky. You push all doors to get into buildings (even though there is the same damn handle the Americans have). This has led to dozens of frustrating incidents already of new students screaming "I'm locked out!" You strangely, pull doors out as you leave buildings. This has led to cramped wrists. Crosswalks are sacred here, there is much traffic, Alfa Romeo taxis go 80 mph approaching hairpin curves; and they will not swerve if you set foot in the road, let alone jaywalk. I've been told car owners have received damages done to their paint jobs from injured pedestrians. But the Audis will stop on a dime for you if you walk the mile down the tiny 15 foot wide road to that rare crosswalk – they'll even give you a smile as you do so. Similar are the Swiss flight attendants screaming "GET DOWN" like Arnold schwarnegger in the airplane if a passanger barely gets up to scratch their leg while the fasten seatbelt sign is on. He acquiesces, and everyone smiles as usual.
Such behavior represents another famous and universal custom here; Order.
Today we went bowling on the outskirts of Lugano. 13 year old girls were everywhere, dressed like they were 21. For some of them, the only way I knew there age was the guys they were with, who looked like they were 12.
Bowling alleys have bars and gas stations have bars. Everywhere serves alcohol and cigarettes. The pins were easier to knock down that American pins, and the balls had only three hand sizes per weight of ball. I liked that. The air inside is thick with smoke, and everyone young looks like metrosexual. This is my first encounter with many young Europeans. Although most of them were teenagers, I must say that these girls, especially around my age, are very attractive, mainly because of how well the women dress. But after 17, they disappear. The young guys look like greasers. Although the elderly are physically fit, women around 40 or 50 lose the sexy sense of fashion and are not as attractive to me; many of the grandmothers wear fur coats.
One of the Orientation leaders tells me that the relationship between the people at this college and the University of Lugano, which is exclusively local, is not good, because of the language barrier. That surprises me, since most of the students at this American School speak Italian fairly well. They have been living in an Italian City for four years. It’s not about language barriers. People don’t fall in love because of their vocabulary. It is about what is unspoken. It is about attitude. And the American students can’t drop theirs.
While I enjoy being here, I know this is not my home. But I am still fascinated with the Europe and European Women, all who are inaccessible to me by language at least, the language barrier only making me focus more on their look, their manners, and their alienation to me. I am so far absolutely disgusted with the American women at Franklin College, who I do understand, and who I can’t get away from – mostly because internet usage is restricted to the lobbies of the building. This college is the exact opposite of Rutgers – for obvious reasons. If you’ve spoken to me you know my complaints about at Rutgers. But now I’m seeing the opposite and the grass isn’t greener, in campus life respects. I would not want to go here for the campus life value, so far. About 300 people go to this school. There are 20 people that were accepted to the study abroad program. The 5 guys in that program are free-spirited, accomplished, intelligent, reserved and adventurous. Today the rest of the students in my building returned.
The other full-time people at this college so far, I find repulsive, inside and out. First, American girls here are not what I think of as attractive. The vast majority of them are overweight and have red hair. This student body, is at heart, purely American liberal arts. Being in the most abundant, beautiful, unique location doesn’t change their frame of mind one bit. So far, and my judgments may be premature, they blast their cheesy punk music in their dorm villas, gossip, gossip, gossip, about who and who inside of the college, and browse facebook all day long. This is what I want to get away from; and more reason for me to spend less time on campus itself. I am very quiet around them, these college kids are different from the ones in New Jersey at Rutgers. They are incredibly bored; they have a lot of money and a lot of time, and not too much to worry about – they have few responsibilities, not even to themselves.
The girls here are spoiled in a mature way, giving a similar impression one gets when you look at a 12 year old with a 300 dollars cellular phone. Many of them have traveled all over the world, and however spoiled, are culturally savvy, but unsatisfied with their discoveries. At 19, many of these girls, and I do emphasize girls because their desires and hopes are different from men; are bored with cultural abundance; numb to it – but they keep on shopping and traveling, looking to grow up. I think inside, students here miss the Unites States. Their sustenance is their parents, who are located in the US. We Americans are not swiss, and will not become swiss ever, even if by some insane chance they stay here the required 13 years or marry a Swiss. This is because, unlike America, this you must grow up in this country, read its literature you’re whole life, become part of a tradition that is greater than a fashion statement. Inside; they realize their future is the US. It is a sort of elitism for them here, in their paradise. The politics here are ridiculous, and I have purposely chosen not to speak a word to anyone mine, or tell them about my past. Although I mentioned joining the marines to one of them, and the room became very still and uneasy. Few of them are ex-patriots and communists, I suppose because it is fashionable, but it certainly isn’t honest, since they are not impressed with what is here, and are constantly making comparisons with what is implicitly American. University of Lugano and its “Barriers.” Again, my judgments may be premature, but it is cultural difference and its accompanying shock that gives the study abroad experience value; I almost feel bad for these students; their experience does not really deliver them from abstraction- the whole point. We should immerse ourselves in this different cutlure, and yes, for once, follow the doctrine of moral relativism and succumb to a culture and way of life we respect, but is not ours and never truly will be. This will teach us much about ourselves and all we have taken for granted. I think the fact that Rutgers beat the shit out of me made me a better man, a more patient, wise, understanding man. I fought hard and now I realize just how much progress I have made. I dreamed I could go to a tiny liberal arts college for the last four years, and now I am here in the last semester, realizing how far I’ve come. I’m a senior. I’m graduating; earned my experience at a place with little gossip and no coddling.
I intend to visit the University of Lugano and confront these “Barriers;” language and others, etc. face-to-face. I don’t speak a word of Italian yet, and know nothing about this place, and frankly, it’s better that way. All said and done, it’s very easy to stay away from what I don’t like here; we’ll see what happens.
I’m looking forward to going to Milan tomorrow – and mending my heart somehow– which is still broken after I spoke with ███████ yesterday – I’m still in love with her. I cried last night and earlier this afternoon I’m making this a diary as well as a travel guide as I need a place to just stream my consciousness and externalize, I don’t think my 4 readers or so will mind.

NJO: Originally posted on the blog Feathers of Steel at liberabit.blogspot.com.

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